Purity and Goodness

Amidst the excruciating hours of sitting in Lagos traffic, each and everyone of us have been privy to sugar cane sightings. Yes, somewhere inside one of those rickety old 2 wheeled wheel barrels they patiently await purchase.

I must sheepishly confide that I did not realize what the thick brown cylinders were at first. Unfortunately, I'm much more prone to use it's highly processed stripped counter part. If I could only explain the amount of nonsense that is carried inside these wooden slabs amongst the immense traffic on the streets; only then could you understand how I simply wrote the them off as twigs or branches from the latest renovation.

In all honestly, it probably would have taken a greater length of time to identify the product if it wasn't for my friend Jeff. Him and of course our seriously crazy trip to Ketu Market.

Ketu Market is one of the largest produce markets in Lagos State. It was for our up and coming restaurant that Jeff and I got the hair-brained idea to tromp through Ketu in search of inspiration. Inspiration that could be laying somewhere between the mud and chaos of the market. It was only with sheer genius that we pleaded with our lovely Cuban friend Neysa, to come and fight the fierce pricing battle with us.

Neysa is a restaurant manager by day, and a cold hearted bargainer by night. She has the charm that can amuse any vendor, and a wicked "last price" that she slaps non apologetically into their leathered hands as she walks away with goods. Needless to say this receives mixed reactions, and not all vendors find the humor in it as I do. Neysa is fabulous.

There we were, three people that could not stand out any more at a Nigerian market. Rain had beaten the soil heavily through out the week before. Thus creating a large sink whole of black mud for us to fight from engulfing our foot ware. All the while dodging bullets of rain and humorous remarks from the sea of spectators.

We made our way about the market, and Jeff noticed a young man struggling to push a heavy cart of sugar cane. Selling the 12" sticks at a standardized rate of N50 ($0.33) we picked up a few for our up coming creations. I can't recall exactly what or even if we did end up utilizing it. There was stiff competition between the fresh pink guavas and kilos upon kilos of other random produce that we hulled into the restaurant's kitchen.

Since then I have not taken time to search for the sugar cane again. Perhaps I'd passed them here and there with a preoccupied mind, but recently it was hard not to take notice as I passed the 8th... no 9th cart of them with in a 1/2 mile stretch.

I had a few ideas of how to avail my new purchase. One of which was of course the traditional Vietnamese Chao Tom. Shrimp blended with fresh herbs and aromatic flavorings, skewered onto thick sticks of sugar cane and grilled till brilliantly caramelized.

Now, what I did was no Chao Tom but I was sparked into expanding sugar canes's potential. I prepared an all natural sugar cane syrup. Literally chopped up sugar cane stalks boiled in a few cups of water. Then strained, slightly reduced and cooled. Leaving you with the purest tasting sweetener for any beverage. Not overly sweet, but carrying a natural rich caramel flavor that is beautiful in cocktails, teas and coffees. Use a generous drizzle over fresh fruits for the kids, or infuse the syrup with flavors such as ginger or mint to spice it up.

I will surly attack the Chao Tom soon, and perhaps I will even be compelled to post yet another version of it onto the World Wide Web. But as it is for now I am more than pleased with the purity and goodness of my simple syrup.

Pure Sugar Cane Syrup

There really is not much of a recipe to report on this one, just more of a method.

1 Sugar can stalk, roughly 12"

Water 3 cups

Peel and roughly cut the sugar cane into small sticks. Use the back of your knife to lightly pound the sticks, just enough to get the juices flowing again. Throw them into boiling water and let it simmer away. Keep on the heat for about 15-20 minuets, continuing to observe the water level. You don't want it to boil down to nothing, but you want to keep it on long enough so the sweetness can come out and affect the water.

Strain the liquid from the solid pieces with a fine mesh strainer.Return the liquid to the fire and let it reduce for another 5 minutes. This just allows the flavor to intensify.

Cool at room temperature and store in the refrigerator.

This One's for You.

I’m a girl that's lucky enough to not only have 2 grandmothers, but rather 3. In 1990 my parents decided to pack up our belongings and head out west to California. Diapers and all we drove across the flat land from our small town in Michigan.

After a couple of trial and errors with housing we finally found what soon became one our most memorable homes. This without a doubt was due to the wonderful lady who lived next door, Harriet.

Leaving our extended family behind in Michigan, Harriet quickly adopted the title of “California Grandmother.” She had it all: card games, grand piano, loads of trinkets with interesting tales, infectious laughter and a wild purple sea of lupines in her yard.

Day after day there we were, three lively little girls bopping around her house playing card games for hours. It was plain to see that she had moved past the title of Grandmother, to Our Dear Friend. One of our family’s classic stories is during my Grandfather's visit from Michigan. Amongst his stay I insisted he meet my friend Harriet, and somehow even convinced him to walk next door for a proper introduction. Harriet kindly welcomed us in and provided light hearted conversation. It was only after some time my Grandfather politely asked where Harriet was. Harriet replied with a surprised “ I’m Harriet!” I suppose somewhere along the way I had forgotten to mention to him that Harriet was not an 8 year-old classmate of mine. But I never saw her in any other way besides my best of friends.

We inevitably moved away after a few more years of friendship, but nevertheless we've yet to lose touch. Between the decades of letters, phone calls and precious visits we grow closer through time. Harriet is now in her 80’s and you could never guess, she's just as active and bright spirited as ever. I admire her strength and spirit more than I can I formulate into words. She has, is and always will be my motivator, my friend and yes, my California Grandmother.

Just in case anyone is wondering exactly how Harriet pertains to my recipe of curried chicken salad; it was upon my last trip that I was blessed to have yet another marvelous visit with her. Our favorite lunch time spot was sadly shut down due to the economy crisis, so we decided to eat lunch in. Dining upon the table that each of us girls has sat down at year after year discussing our latest adventures and trials.

I did not want to spend the few hours that I got with her this year cooking, so I picked up a delicious curry chicken salad, butter lettuce and other grand accompaniments. Harriet's company and conversation made it all the more satisfying, but I still think that my rendition can hold up.

The salad is scrumptious yes, but even better is that I got to sneak in a great tale of a great lady.

Curried Chicken Saldad with Sesame Tuiles

Serves 2

For the Chicken:

Chicken Breast, cubed 300 gr ( 10 oz)

Coconut Milk 200 gr ( 1 cup)

Water 200 gr ( 1cup)

Salt, pinch

Curry powder 2 gr (1/2 tsp)

Cube the chicken breast (this will make it cook a lot faster for you.) Combine coconut milk, water and salt and bring to a boil. Add chicken and simmer till cooked. Remove from liquid and place into a bowl. Sprinkle curry powder onto the chicken immediately while the chicken is still hot. This will help the meat to take in the flavor of the curry. Allow to cool completely and shred by hand.

For the Salad:

Mayonnaise 40 gr (3 Tbsp)

Green apple, diced half a medium sized apple

Fresh green chilie, minced (add as little or as much as desired)

Salt, to taste

Cracked black pepper, to taste

Coriander leaves 2 gr (1/2 tsp)

Spring onions 2 gr (1/2 tsp)

Toasted coconut shavings 2 gr ( 1/2 tsp)

Nuts, optional 10 gr (2 tsp ) You can use any type, I recommend walnuts, pine nuts or cashews)

Cucumber, sliced 30 gr (1 oz)

Endive 30 gr (1 oz)

Lettuce leaves 30 gr (1 oz)

Mix together the shredded chicken with all ingredients except cucumber, endive and lettuce leaves. Toss to coating all evenly. Place on top of the bed of lettuce, endive and cucumbers. Garnish with sesame tuiles.

For the Tuiles:

Recipe for the sesame tuiles can be pulled directly from here.

For Better. For Worse.

In Lagos you are bound not to lack one thing, products from the Middle East. Whether it's electronics, cosmetics or food items for better or for worse you're sure to have an abundance.

I can get on board with most of the food products. All except the skeptical looking " رقائق الذرة" that is recognizable as "Corn Flakes" only by Cornelious the Rooster's profile.

I have a huge weak spot for the black olives sold in the weathered wooden barrels, the spiced roasted nuts and sweet medjool dates. I have to admit that the U.S. can grow it all, but there is nothing like eating something that grew in it's native homeland.

I had picked up a rather large pack of dates from the stores thinking that I would be able to consume them with in a matter of days. I love their naturally sweet and chewy texture with sharp blue cheese. But there they sat, forgotten on the bottom rack of my oven, tightly wrapped in styrofoam and plastic.

I needed to find a use for them that would consume the entire pack before they completely dried up on me. I set about Googling for inspiring date recipes and was quickly taken by the sound of a Coffee and Date Bread. I took the opportunity to use the dates, and truly had no intentions of re-posting the recipe here. But this bread is so richly dense with just the perfect balance of bitter coffee and sweet dates. It was all I could do from shouting out the recipe from the highest rooftops. So here it is now, on my metaphorical rooftop. No, it's not an original but with a recipe this good.... I don't so much mind.

Besides my uneasy amount of Nutella that I smeared across each slice, I made a few minuet changes/personal preferences. I swapped out half of the white sugar with brown sugar, reduced the salt and omitted the pecans.

I also had all desire to save a slice or two till it became stale enough to engulf a thick custard, and on one brilliant sunny morning I would have a unique french toast. Unfortunately and un-regrettably the loaf never made it that far. Oh well, I suppose I will just have to make another!

Coffee and Date Bread (smothered with Nutella)

Dates, chopped and pitted 145 gr (1 cup)

Baking soda 5 gr (1 Tsp)

Strong brewed coffee 235 ml (1 cup)

Soften butter, unsalted 30 gr (2 Tbsp)

White sugar 100 gr (1/2 cup)

Brown sugar 100 gr (1/2 cup)

Egg 1 pc

Vanilla extract 5 ml (1 tsp)

All-purpose flour 190 gr (1 1/2 cups)

Salt 2 gr ( 1/2 Tsp)

Nutella: As much as your heart desires.

Preheat the oven to 175 C (350 F). Grease an 8x4 inch loaf pan and coat with flour. Sake out the excess flour. Place the dates and baking soda in a bowl and pour the hot coffee over top. Set aside.

In a separate bowl mix together the butter, sugars and egg until well whipped. Stir in vanilla. Combine sifted flour and salt and add in intervals till combined. Transfer to the prepared loaf pan.

Bake for about 1 hour. Test by inserting a tooth pick into the center and gently pull it out. If the pick is clean let stand for 5 mins. Remove from pan and allow to cool on a wire rack.

If you manage to save it for french toast let me know how it is!

Pesto's the Besto!

Pesto and I have a short yet checkered past together. Towards the beginning of my culinary exploration pesto loaned it's timeless clout to my food repertoire. In it came calvary and all, yielding me with multiple praises of admiration as friends and family were served up by the pound. But somewhere within that ambiguous sauce my deepest most digestible secret laid. I had used store bought "assistance."

I was the master with personal disguises of fresh basil, garlic and handfuls of parmesan cheese. Today, however I am no longer convinced that those augmentations qualify me to have called the sauce my own.

My grand parade of entertaining with store bought pesto plummeted after attending my exorbitant culinary school. Night after night of sauce preparation on a grading scale, lead me to uncertainty as to how I could dodge stammering questions of what exactly happened to my previous pesto recipe.

Now being at a safe distance of about 7,000 miles from anyone that knew me or my pesto sauce previously, I would venture in to the world of basil and pine nuts once again.

Conceivably it could have been my estranged past that lead me to heave my ingredients into the large wooden mortar and pestle; leaving my modern blender to collect the day's dust. I knew this time there would be no doubt of the authenticity of my sauce. I do not necessarily encourage this technique if your not entirely quilt stricken, the good old trusty electricity makes this a much more manageable feast.

The beautiful thing about pesto is that it can coat any noodle, grilled vegetable, chicken or seafood with massive integrity. Each dignified flavor melts perfectly into one another, leaving out the need for any additional fuss. I like to make up a big batch and throw it all into the freezer for future use.

Whether it is just for two or for a large dinner party, I know that I will never have to ponder over the How-To's of smuggling bottles of prepackaged pesto sauce.

Fresh Basil Pesto with Arugula & Soba Noodles

The basil found locally is not the dignified Sweet Basil varietal that is utilized in Italian pestos.

After a little light research on the foliage it is my guess that it's the Spicy Globe variety. Which has a bit more of a black pepper essence, but once it's all whirled up with garlic, extra virgin olive oil and quality parmesan cheese it's hard to detect any difference.

Basil Pesto:

Serves 2 good sized portions

Fresh basil leaves 100gr ( 1/4 cup)

Garlic 20gr ( 1.5 Tbs)

Olive Oil 150gr ( 1/2 cup)

Pine nuts, toasted 40gr ( 3 Tbs)

Parmesan cheese, grated 40gr ( 3 Tbs)

Lemon juice 10gr ( 2 Tbs)

Salt, to taste

Fresh cracked black pepper, to taste

Combine the ingredients together inside a blender or weapon of choice. Blend till all ingredients are broken down, but I still like a little texture to mine rather than completely all pureed.

Boil about 100gr ( 3.5 oz ) of soba noodles per person. Soba noodles are similar to spaghetti and made from buckwheat, I like their hearty flavor.

Once boiled add to a saute pan along with enough pesto sauce to coat all the noodles. Add a handful of arugula leaves and allow a low flame to heat the the sauce slightly and wilt the leaves. Pesto sauce should not be brought up to a boil for the flavors are best when still in a raw state.

If Caprese & Bruschetta Fell in Love...

If one would have seen fit to post a run-on sentence for a blog title, they would have happily labeled this one as: "If Caprese & Bruschetta Fell in Love, Had a Love Child & That Child Later on Met an Oven, Recipe. "

Originally for this post I began jotting down ideas for a "Play on Caprese." But I was left with 2 pretty big obstacles: How the heck am I going to find fresh buffalo mozzarella and a peaked summer-time tomato?

After debating for an unnatural amount of time on how I was to create an authentic caprese salad, under the assumption I would not find buffalo mozzarella here. Yet I'm still apprehensive to place my foot inside one of those notorious French shops in Lagos. Yes, I've heard you can find "everything" there, along with the rumors of street-wrapped lines, and fist fights woman begin over newly arrived goods. I've even heard of the heavy price tags that come attached, and how they're enough to make even the wealthiest of us weak.

Sure the urge to barricade a spot inside one of these massive lines has slowly come, but it's even quicker to pass. Leaving me undecided if the fear is of loving or loathing it there.

However with much contemplation at my relatively calm, dare I say boring grocery powerhouse, I found a decent feta cheese. I could not help but be intrigued by the thought of swapping it out for the mozzarella.

With tomatoes in mind I stuck with my weekly staple of cherry tomatoes. Their shelf life is surely enduring and due to their nature they're usually consistently sweet. Even still, I though it best to enhance their flavor further by popping them in the oven. Allowing them to roast with olive oil and sea salt.

As my mind continued to conceptualize, one way or the other, I decided to throw it all on top of a grilled crisp baguette. Bruschetta style.

Within the first bit I was completely enraptured by the flavors and all around me kindly vanished. Leaving me alone to enthrall in the glory of the smoky grilled bread, caramelized tomatoes, salty feta cheese, sweet and spicy balsamic peppercorn glaze, and fresh basil leaves. A match made in heaven.

Roasted cherry tomato & feta bruschetta with a balsamic peppercorn reduction

Balsamic Peppercorn Reduction:

Balsamic vinegar 100gr (3.5 oz)

Brown sugar 15gr (1 Tbs)

Cracked black peppercorns 2gr (1/2 Tsp)

Salt, pinch

Place all ingredients in a saute pan, bring to a light boil and keep a very close eye as it thickens. This will not need much time, around 5 mins will do. When it reaches a glaze consistency immediately remove from the heat and all to cool before touching/tasting. (This can be hard I know!)

Feta and Roasted Cherry Tomato Brucshetta:

Serves 4 people

Cherry tomatoes 500gr (1lbs)

Olive oil 50 gr (4Tbs)

Sea salt 1 gr (about 2 pinches)

Feta cheese, cubed 240gr ( 8 oz)

Fresh basil leaves, julienne 10gr (2 Tsp)

Place olive oil onto a baking sheet and add the cherry tomatoes. Toss the tomatoes around in the olive oil and add salt. Coat evenly.

Place in a 180 C oven (350F) and roast for 7-10 mins, depending on the size of the tomatoes. The tomatoes are small and will not take much time to caramelize.

Remove from the oven and set the tomatoes aside in a large mixing bowl. Add the feta cheese cubes to the roasting tray. Stirring the cheese around to absorb the pan drippings, remaining olive oil and slightly heating through. Add to the tomatoes.

Check for seasoning and let cool slightly. When ready to serve add the fresh basil leaves and place on top of the sliced grilled baguette.

Drizzle the balsamic peppercorn reduction as a finishing touch. Can be served hot or at room temperature.

Yes, Eat Well Lagos has had a makeover since its last debut. The beautiful blood orange photograph is the work of Jeff Taffoya.

L-M-N-O-Pea

This last month I finally succeeded in returning home for my highly anticipated reunion with the family. I left my weeks of summer there to return to the rainy, or better yet the "Look how sunny it is... oh no there's a massive thunderstorm" Season here.

This is my 3rd season of such and each yearI get such a kick out of the guys in the kitchen during this time. Each of them take their turn wearing the tick padded, gnome-hooded coat that is used for work in the deep freezers. While the rest of them stand clustered together in one tight corner dodging the AC vents from above.

Of course at this point I must interject with stories of just exactly how much snow I've survived during my Michigan years, and that their rainy 75 F weather ain't got nothing on me!

Despite my best efforts in never being wrong; they are the ones with amusement as I place my goose-bumped self in front of the large convection oven. Am I really feeling cold in Nigeria? Is it really I that is walking around like a Grade-A Eskimo in my flat?

The other day I was (of course cold) in the grocery store, and began dreaming of something billowing uncontrollably with steam. Next thing I knew I was stumbling upon a bag of green split peas. Now I've never actually prepared a pot of split pea soup, or by any means willing ate a bowl of it in my life. But as memory served me well, I could almost begin to sense the soup's smoky aroma once again. I knew there was no turning back from the temptation of having a crack at it.

While preparing this skeptically hued food, I was impressed most by the simplicity and sure ease that these peas took as they metamorphosed from their rock solid state into a luxurious soup. This amazement most likely originates from the moment any soup making rings about my ears; I immediately begin to conger up this huge ordeal consisting of an extravagant amount of soaking, sauteing, simmering and hours of impatient waiting.

However, that's not the story here. Once these bad boys hit the pot, off about my business I was and 45mins later I had a cure for my rainy day. I took the liberty at the end of it all to add a lavish dollop of Greek yogurt too.

With a soup like this, I'll never look back upon a poor split pea soup memory again!

Vegetarian Split Pea Soup

Serves 6

* Bacon is very much welcomed here too. Just dice up a few strips and add it first thing to the pot. After the fat has been rendered continue with the olive oil and onions.

White onion, 1/2 finely diced

Garlic, 2 cloves grated or minced

Small carrot, 1 peeled and diced

Bay leaf, 1

Split peas, 500gr

Water, 8 cups

Olive oil, 15gr

Salt and pepper to taste

Greek Yogurt before service, optional

Heat a deep stock pot with olive oil and lightly sauté the onions with a pinch of salt. Add the garlic briefly before adding the carrots and split peas. Give it all a good stir and add the bay leaf.

Pour in about 8 cups of water or stock, keeping in mind that you may have to add a bit more throughout the cooking process. Give it one last stir, cover and reduce the heat to medium low. Feel free to check on it and give it a couple of stirs in the next 45mins-1 hour. You will know its done when the peas are soft and appear almost pureed. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Garnish with Greek yogurt before serving.

Enjoy!

The Magic of Fennel

Unfortunately it is not a well kept secret that my short lived, one post a week goal has nearly become a one post a month procrastination. Sure, I have about 101 different excuses if you only ask. But the short of the long story is that I simply have not set aside time.

At first I was thinking that I would have to begin this post with a large bold font disclaimer. A warning to any reader that I would not be held responsible for any poor or sad disposition after digesting all that had poured onto this page from my chest. But as each finger is now strolling about these lettered keys, I am beginning to feel a bit more up beat. (Well, that and the fact that ELO's "Do Ya" just came on my iPod, and that old toe tappin' tune is sure to pull anyone out of their funk.)

Now I know for some when the blues hit home, visions of chocolates and double churned ice cream go dancing in your head. But for me I like to protest food and eat my worries instead. Since this is a space for change (changing perceptions and mundane dinner menus) maybe for me too it is time to change in times as such, and what I need is a good strong healthy meal. For a change.

Yes, something uplifting, something bright and clean should do the trick. An answer to that request arrived in form of a large array of eye catching fennel bulbs. Snow white with brilliant green crowns of franz that could be fit for even a king himself.

For me fresh fennel can evoke the most vivid and loved of times past: Fall. Just with the slightest hint of its reminiscent aroma, I am drawn back deep into a season of cool windswept days that were warmed by a mild ray of sunlight. A fabulous season where the moon is quick to rise and the sun to set. A season of rich braised and roasted meals that warm both kitchens and beings alike. Meals that so generously bestow their aromas of caramelizing fennel and large spiced meats tenderizing by the hour.

But...... this is Africa and cool nights like those do not exists, and before now neither did I think fennel bulbs. So to compromise between the climate and the bulb, I choose to go for another simple and typical use of fennel. Perhaps one that will better suite the hot and dusty days that we are experiencing here now. Shaved fennel and juicy orange segment salad. Loved by and indigenous to the Mediterranean region, these two flavors blend together beautifully.

(However I still do hold firm on fennel's strong roasting abilities, and perfect pairing with fatty meat drippings. But hey, this will do just fine for now.)

Cashew Crusted Fish with Fennel and Orange Segment Salad

serves 2

For the Fish:

White Fish Fillet ( I used grouper, by any firm fish will do) 440g, 220g each

Honey 40g

Dijon Mustard 20g

Cashews, chopped 70g

Olive Oil 10g

Salt and white pepper to season

For the Salad:

Whole Orange 130g (2, plus its juice)

Fresh Fennel Bulb 30g

Radicchio (optional) 10g

Lime Juice 15g

Honey 10g

Olive Oil 10g

A few pretty pinches of the green franz

Salt and white pepper to taste

Delicately remove all outer rind of the oranges, and slice in between the white boarders of each orange segment. Squeeze out all remaining juice and be sure to remove any seeds. Thinly slice the fennel bulb, you may want to make use of a mandolin if you have one handy. If you are choosing to use radicchio (I did solely for color) thinly slice as well. Combine with all remaining ingredients, season and toss well.

Season fish fillet with salt and white pepper. Heat sauté pan with olive oil and sear both sides of the fish. Place in a heated oven at 200C to finish cooking. Once cooked remove from the pan and place on a cutting board. Combine the honey and Dijon mustard and spread onto all sides of the fish evenly. Roll around in the chopped cashews. (I did this step for I have only found toasted cashews here and if you were to crust the raw fish with these they would burn. If you have found untoasted cashews feel free to eliminate this step with the honey and mustard 'adhesive'. I did however find the honey on the fish, and the slight honey flavor in the salad to tie it all together.)

Photograph by Jeff Tafoya